Vacation in Seoul - Day Trip to the DMZ

I was in Seoul for a short vacation and one of the highlights of my trip was the visit to the DMZ or Panmunjom - ie the "heavily fortified" Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea . This tour is billed as one of the best ways to understand the nature of the North and South Korea division. So true. Your understanding of the recent history of Korea takes on a new dimension. Here, the two armies have been staring at each other for the last 50 years.

The DMZ is a 4 km wide area, 240km long along the borders of North and South Korea that both countries have agreed to clear of military personnel. It is about 60 km north of Seoul. The DMZ was created on July 27, 1953, following the Armistice Agreement that ended three years of fighting, if not the war itself. The only area where the military is officially allowed to be is in the Joint Security Area, or the JSA, which is a small complex that rests along the Demarcation Line of the borders.

Those wishing to visit the DMZ must join an organized tour. Individual tourists are prohibited. Although many travel agencies offer tours to Panmunjeom and the DMZ, I would recommend the Panmunjom Tour Center.

It all starts on the sixth floor of the five-star Lotte Hotel, in the center of Seoul. The tour was booked at Panmunjom Travel Center's. This was the tour itnerary

Itinerary
10:00~10:30 Departure
10:30~11:30 Travel
11:30~12:30 Lunch
12:30~12:50 Freedom Bridge (Imjingak Park)
12:50~13:10 Panmunjeom Check Point/ Arrive in Camp Bonifas
13:10~13:40 Slide show briefing about Joint Security Area
13:40~15:10 JSA tour (Advanced Camp - Freedom House - Conference Room - Observation Post - Bridge of No Return-Stump of felled tree)
15:10~15:30 Camp Bonifas
15:30~16:40 Travel to Seoul

The dress code is strictly no jeans, sandals, slippers, T-shirts, short pants, sleeveless shirts, training pants, or military style clothing. They let you know that you are being watched and/or possibly video taped from the North side. This is to prevent the North from making any negative propaganda against the South.

As the tour bus makes its way northward along the "Freedom Highway," the guide brief ed us on the infiltration tunnels dug by the North Korean army with the intention to covertly invade Seoul and take over South Korea.

Since Kim Il Sung's combat order to dig them in 1971, four such tunnels have been discovered respectively in 1974, 1975, 1978 and 1990. The third tunnel, 75 meters deep is the closest to Seoul.

The first stop is a lunch stop at one of the local roadside restaurant. We shared our food, two persons to share a mixed vegetable, mushrooms, bean sprouts and beef soup over a gas stove. It was served with many side dishes of kim-chi.


After the traditional Korean lunch, we were off to Camp Bonifas.


Daeseong-dong Village
South Korea's Daeseong-dong (Freedom Village) can be seen on the way to Panmunjeom. The 230 resident farmers who live here descend from families who lived in the area before the Korean War. Residents receive preferential treatment (including exemption from military service), but must also abide by strict rules (including a nightly curfew).


Gijeong-dong Village
Gijeong-dong propaganda village, situated 1.8 km from Daeseong-dong Village, was built specially in the northern area of the DMZ for the purpose of propaganda. Designed to show the superiority of the communist model, it has no residents except soldiers.


The world's highest flag tower flying the North Korean flag 1,600 metres (5,252ft) stands at the entrance of the village. The flag has a dry weight of 600 lbs and it takes a might strong wind before it can fly properly. Lush green hills lie in the distance.


At Camp Bonafis, were had a short briefing regarding the dos and don’t when we reach our final destination of Panmunjom.


We were also instructed to "don't read, just sign" a Visitor's Declaration (later returned to us) stating that "Although incidents are not anticipated, the United Nations Command, the United States of America, and the Republic of Korea cannot guarantee the safety of visitors and may not be held accountable in the event of a hostile enemy act."

We finally arrive at our main destination of Panmunjom, officially called JSA (Joint Security Area) (see also the movie "JSA").

Once again passports are examined a second time, along with a quick dress-code check. Mini skirts, heels and flip-flops are out, although sneakers seemed to be accepted -- "so you can run faster" in case of emergency, informs the guide.

Front Line of the UNC, Camp Bonifas
The United Nations Command forces have jurisdiction over Panmunjeom. The forces stay in Camp Bonifas (named in honor of the late Capt. Arthur G. Bonifas who was killed in the 'ax murder incident' in Panmunjeom on August 18, 1976).

The U.N. Command guard forces were established with 5 officers and 10 soldiers in May 1952 and have conducted their duty to support the Military Armistice Commission conferences. By the time the Korean War was over, the number of soldiers numbered about 1,900. These days, about 400 soldiers, including ROK and U.S. soldiers, conduct their duty to guard Panmunjom. The UNC guard forces have four important duties: first, to guard the Panmunjom JSA; second, to guard and support the Military Armistice Commission; third, to conduct the administration of Daeseong-dong (Freedom Village); fourth, to secure visitors of Panmunjeom and conduct tours.

Before entering the most sensitive area of Korea's demilitarised zone (DMZ) visitors are required to sign a form that begins: "The visit to the joint security area at Panmunjom will entail entry into a hostile area and the possibility of injury or death."

We got to go into the MAC (Military Armistice Commission) building. It is basically a small UN blue building that straddle the border – the Military Demarcation Line. These buildings look like a temporary classrooms.


Inside are simple tables and chairs. It was interesting to watch the elite South Korean soldiers deploy as we were escorted in two lines to the building. Inside you can actually cross into North Korea as you stand on the other side of the talks table. Negotiations between the North and South took place in these blue UN buildings.


The helmeted South Korean guards, Republic of Korea (ROK) soldiers strike a theatrical pose, legs wide apart, leaning slightly forward, fists clenched, eyes hidden behind dark glasses. They are standing at a modified position of taekwando. Along with the sun glasses, it provides an intimidating stance and stare towards the North Koreans. It also provides a photo opportunity for us tourists. But no touching -- that includes our hosts, the hard-hatted ROK soldiers, whose dark glasses make eye-contact impossible.


The soldiers outside are standing half expose. That is to present a less of a targeting face in case someone was to fire at them.


The hermit kingdom to the north may have set off a nuclear test, but the chances of a mass attack across the DMZ are slim these days.


There is a time limit we can stay there as another tour group is waiting. We line up in twos and walk back to the bus. The bus makes a final outdoor stop at the highest military checkpoint within the JSA, giving us a panoramic view of the naturally disguised minefields that stretch across to the North Korean mountains.


On the way back, we saw the Bridge of No Return, the only bridge connecting North and South Korea and the site of many prisoner exchanges.


This is probably the most heavily fortified border in the world. It is also one of the weirdest and scariest spots on the planet. I now can appreciate the tension and animosity between the North and South and understand a little better the pysche of the South Koreans.